Ser ou não ser?

Ele é o surfista que vem logo atrás de Slater no ranking do WT. Estreou no Tour há dois anos como promessa e muitos já lhe deram o título de campeão mundial de 2012, 2013 ou 2014. É um dos caras mais admirados do mundo, suas manobras são as melhores da atualidade – assista o Modern Collective e esse vídeo do segundos 40 ao 45 – e , com certeza, é o surfista mais talentoso da sua geração.

Sendo quem é e com a qualidade que tem, não entendo porque ele quer tanto ser outra pessoa.

jordysmith.com

… e não digo isso só em função do site, não.

“A prancha tava bastante usada,
o dono colocou na galeria River.
Foi vendida com todas suas memórias
15 tubos,
4 viagens à guarda do Embaú
3 beijos que saíram mais caro que o combinado
4.372 ondas sem maior importância
1 aéreo na junção
1 carona que quase virou família
3 rasgadas que renderam conversa na areia
1250 vacas
8 pontos na panturrilha
2 toneladas de pôr do sol
37 mil kilômetros de horizonte…
o turista incauto pagou 390 reais
e em 20 minutos de surfe partiu-lhe ao meio.
Os dois pedaços ficaram na beira da praia
até que um moleque de passagem
catasse os restos e inventasse um brinquedo que mudaria sua vida para sempre.”

Pedro Cezar

*Quem sentiu tem sua própria imagem da prancha.

Andy was an absolutely gifted individual. I’m lucky to have known him and had the times we had together. I feel blessed that we worked through the differences we had and I was able to learn what I’m made of because of Andy. We enjoyed many quiet times together with our girls in the last year and I got to know a happy, funny, innocent kid who was happy to live every second with the people he loved. I’m so sad. My thoughts are with Bruce and Lyndie and their parents and all of his many friends around the world. It’s a huge and far too premature loss for all of us. He was the most intense competitor I’ve ever known and one of the most sensitive people. He had so much life left in him and it hurts to think about. We look forward to his memory living on with our memories of him and his child on the way. There are a lot of uncles awaiting his arrival. I really miss Andy. He had a really good heart. With love, Kelly - Kelly Slater

Foto: Bielmann/SPL

TransWorld SURF: Regarding your heat against Kelly in the semifinals, what was that like?

Andy Irons: Kelly? Everyone freaks out when they draw Kelly, but he’s just another human, but people seem to wig out when they get him in a heat. He’s the man, a nine-time world champ, but he’s just another competitor and can have a bad heat like anyone else. As far as the heat itself, I was stoked it went for so long with no waves—the fewer opportunities he has the better it is for me. I knew a restart [when no waves come through in a heat it restarts after 15 minutes] was close so I caught a wave just so he had to keep going. If it was gonna come down to one wave, I’d rather take the 50/50 chance of me getting it than having him a chance at a couple ten point rides. And it worked out—I got a 9 something an as time ran out he wasn’t able to get a score.

Confira a entrevista completa aqui.

Foto: Sean Rowland

But then, just the thought of Kelly getting 10 would be pretty cool and really good for the sport. I’d probably never say that if I was still on the tour, but his winning 10 would be pretty amazing. Joel Parkinson em entrevista à Surfer Mag.

O curta-metragem “Roots Time” surgiu a partir da reconstrução/reciclagem de uma prancha de surf da década de 70. A matéria completa você confere na edição de agosto. - Por redação Hardcore

Confira aqui o curta que mostra uma prancha das antigas virando praticamente uma obra de arte. Alucinante!